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Keep Your RV Cool!
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There are several ways to keep
your RV cool or ventilated. The cheapest way is with the
standard crank open roof vents. Most RVs today are built
with a 14" x 14" crank open vent in the roof. A better way
to ventilate your RV. Would be a powered roof vent. As
seen in many RV bathrooms. These can be installed anywhere
in the RV. There are companies out there that make large
powered fans that go in the standard roof vent opening.
These fans can move a lot of air either in or out of your
RV. Some of these fans can be controlled by a thermostat
To turn the fan on when it gets hot inside. These powered
roof vents are often powered by your RVs battery. There
are also solar powered vents and vent covers. These allow
the RV to be ventilated even in your absence. Also
available are vent covers that are designed to allow you
to have the vent open even in the rain.
Another way to keep your RV cool would be by your roof air
conditioner. These units not only cool but also remove
humidity from inside the RV. Most often the a/c units are
mounted on the roof. These can be either standard roof air
conditioner or central air conditioner. These air
conditioning units require 110v power. Either from shore
power or a generator. Air conditioners are a freon based
appliance. The compressor moves the freon around the
system. Cooling the air that moves past the evaporator.
This means that it needs to take air in as well as putting
cool air out. The air it takes in is called return air.
There are two styles of roof air conditioners. One is
direct venting. This type has the cool air come right out
of the a/c unit into the RV. The second style is ducted
(sometimes called central air conditioning). This style
takes the cool air and pushes it through duct work in the
ceiling of the RV. Ducted roof air allows the cool air to
be delivered directly to each area of the RV. Don't forget
that if you are cooling a room. You should open the
privacy door to allow the return air out. Direct vent a/c
have all the controls on the inside shroud. Most ducted
a/c units use wall mounted thermostats to control them.
There is some care that needs to be done to a/c units. 1st
being cleaning the filters on the return air system. The
second would be to get up on the roof and look at the back
of the a/c unit. The fins need to be kept undamaged. Some
times tree branches will rub against them and bend them.
If you are very careful you can straighten them out.
Normally you do not have to recharge they don't often
loose freon. If you are going to cover your a/c unit in
the winter. Remember that squirrels and animals like to
live in there till spring and may eat parts of your rv.
The size of your RV will dictate the size of a/c unit you
need. A 7100 BTU unit is good for pop ups. The 7100 air
conditioners are lighter in weight as to limit the extra
wear on lifter system. 11000 Btu units are good for
smaller travel trailers. 13500 Btu is the average size.
Most manufacturers use this size on their RVs. These are
good dependable units and they put out a lot of cool air.
If your RV is over 30' you may want to consider a 15000btu
air conditioner or look at putting a 2nd a/c unit. The
only problem with installing a second a/c unit is if you
only have 30 amp electrical service. You can only use one
unit at a time. If you have 50 amp service you may be able
to use both together. Many manufacturers are switching to
a 15,000btu a/c ducted to the entire unit. There are some
options available for roof a/c units. 1st being a heat
strip. These can be installed in the a/c at any time. What
a heat strip does is heats the air coming out of the vents
when it is set for low fan operation. These will not heat
an RV however they will help to take the chill out of the
air on a rainy day.
Some new a/c's are available with a heat pump built into
them. So they work more like a home air conditioning unit.
These basically run backwards. Remove cold air and put in
warm air. Roof air conditioning units weigh between 85 and
120 lbs. depending on the size you want. |
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